The Bolivian Southwest
Index
Copyright: Jim Ciotti, 2002
August 22, 2001
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Yes, we did like the Bolivian Southwest - so much so that we went there again when Paulette, a friend from Key West, visited in early November. This time, however, we hired our own jeep (and driver and cook) and made up an itinerary that extended the trip into new territory. The first part of the tour was the old, 4-day tour in reverse - we headed southwest out of Uyuni through Alota down to the extreme southwestern corner of Bolivia at Laguna Verde (Green Lake) and Volcan Licancabur. Then we headed north just east of the Chilean frontier past Laguna Colorada (Red Lake) up to Laguna Hedionda (Stinky Lake) and its Flamingoes. From there we covered a bit of new territory. We headed north and northeast past the Volcan Ollague, the town of San Juan, and out onto the Uyuni Saltflat to the Isla de los Pescadores. (Before, we'd arrived at Lake Hedionda from Alota to the east.)
Then, instead of returning to Uyuni we headed into territory off the usual tourist path. We headed to the north shore of the salar to visit the ruins of the Jirira, a culture that dates from pre-Incan times and which practiced (practices?) ancestor worship in a graphic way. They gathered their ancestors' bones, brought them home, and held a fiesta for them. Next we skirted the shore of the Salar going west, then north and east around the Salar de Coipasa, a second large salar to visit the Chipaya, another culture that dates from pre-Incan times. I have wanted to visit the Chipaya since Peace Corps days. It is a colorful, mysterious group whose economy is reputed to be based on hunting flamingoes with bolas; it is also noted for guarding its culture and way of life fiercely and being hostile to strangers.
Page 1: Familiar Territory |
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Page 2: The Lakes to San Juan |
Jim (and Anne)