Bolivia, 2001

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The Mapiri Trail

4: The Jungle

Copyright: Jim Ciotti, 2001    

October 11, 2001

Click on Images for Enlargement

The transition from the high Andes to the jungle is abrupt.  In the afternoon on Tuesday (we left Sorata noon Sunday), the vegetation began to change.  Bushes and spiny, aloe-like succulent plants appeared and came to dominate the landscape.  The tall, spindly stalks of orchids poked up above them; their flowers bobbing in the breeze.  

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The transition zone with our jungle covered route (the ridge-tops) in the background. 

Orchids

The quantity of plant-life increased rapidly and came in ever-growing variation.  Soon, we were buried in a wet, dripping sea of vegetation.  

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Eusebio and Anne at the jungle's edge.

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The dense-packed jungle - a place where palms, tree-ferns, philodendron, and other plants struggle for light and life.  And yet, in this silent battleground, the delicate also flourishes.  The flower and nest below were found down near the jungle floor.  The eggs in the nest are less than a centimeter long.

MapiriJungleFlower.jpg (48185 bytes) MapiriJungleEggs.jpg (61004 bytes)

The trail up in the higher elevations was magnificent.  In spite of this, unaware of what it held for us, we celebrated our arrival in the jungle - the trail here was more difficult.  Our guides said it is never easy in the jungle, but the rainstorm we were caught in as we arrived made matters worse.   

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On level ground (a rare occurrence), the trail is near imaginary.  It is necessary to push through an endless snarl of clinging, entangling plants. 

Waterproof boots?  The long stretches of shin deep mud makes waterproof boots ineffective - water oozes in over the top.  The final defense - run  fast.  

Yes this is the trail.  On the slopes, the trail often drops down through narrow ravines. For long stretches, these are overgrown by fallen trees, vines, and other plants. 

Anne, disappearing into the trail.

 

MapiriJungleWetJim.jpg (29429 bytes) We arrived at  our 1st jungle campsite very late.  We were a wet, muddy mess.  
MapiriJungleCamp1.jpg (52151 bytes) Samuel, Mateo, and Arturo had our campsite ready and dinner cooking.  In the photo, Arturo, Mateo, Samuel, and Eusebio.

 

MapiriJungleTiredAnne.jpg (31881 bytes)

We thought the second day of jungle would be dryer - rain is unusual in the dry season.   We were wrong.  In the afternoon, just as we began the dreaded, 3-hour descent, it poured.  

We arrived at our stopping place soaked and exhausted, but this time there was no awaiting tent - no dinner on the fire.  In fact, there was no campsite.  We had left the prospective campsite behind when we'd tacked on the descent.  

No problema; while we flopped down doing nothing, the campesinos went to work.  While Samuel concocted one of his exotic meals, the others hacked away with their machetes.  Within an hour, they had leveled a considerable portion of the jungle.  They even provided us the requisite mirador - a place where we could get a longer view of our surroundings.  A short time later we were eating.  

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MapiriJungleCamp2.jpg (59494 bytes)

MapiriJungleMateo.jpg (30862 bytes)

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