A Fiesta in Cliza
Copyright: Jim Ciotti, 2001
Saturday, July 14, 2001
Click on Images for Enlargement
On Saturday we went to Cliza. Cliza is a small, sleepy town about a half an hour west of Cochabamba by bus.
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Jim - standing in the central plaza of Cliza. LIfe in most towns in Latin America revolves around its central plaza. |
Marketplaces are the supermarkets of much of Latin America. They are another center of community life. This is Cliza's market. |
Anne is leaving the public bathroom. Often, the public bathroom is the focal point of a gringo's life in Latin America. |
Many of the women in Bolivia dress like this. The bright cloth on the woman's back is used to carry babies, groceries, or whatever. |
Trucks such as these are used to haul both goods and people back and forth across Bolivia. |
The reason for our visit was to participate in the festival of the Virgin of Carmen, an important saint in Bolivia and throughout Latin America. Although this is a Roman Catholic event, the way it is celebrated is strongly influenced by indigenous, pre-Colombian traditions. First, an image of the Virgin of Carmen (in this case, an ornate picture) is brought to Cliza main church mounted on a pickup truck. Then, a long parade consisting of groups of characters you wouldn't expect to see at your average gringo St. Anthony's dance their way on a winding route through the town which ends at the Virgin. Each group has its own type of dance and is accompanied by drums and a brass band.
The "diablada" or devil dancers are the most glitzy of the dancers.
The "Tinku" groups have an interesting history. "Tinku" was a practice in the rural areas in which champions of different communities fought, often to the death. Tinku has largely disappeared but still exists in remote areas. Tinku groups ritualize this practice with dancing rather than fighting.
Dancers from Tarabuco, a town near the city of Sucre, use native instruments and dress. The Tarabucaņos were fierce fighters who won begrudging respect from the Spaniards.
However, there are many other types of groups - all rely upon gaudy costumes, flashy dancing, and noise.
Ciao,
Jim (and Anne)