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There are a series of Incan ruins within 5 miles of Cusco. Conveniently, they are all located in a line along the road between Cusco and the town/ruin of Pisac.


Just above Cusco is a large Incan ceremonial center called Sacsayhuaman. The size of the site itself, a huge, three-tiered amphitheater 340 meters long, is impressive. However, what is most impressive about the site is the size of the stone used in its construction and the skill with which it was cut and shaped. Although the stones making up the ruin weigh up to 130 tons, they fit perfectly with their neighbors.			Thousands of children were practicing for a festival on the day we walked up to Sacsayhuaman. This is one group.

	Qenqo is less than a mile from Sacsayhauman and it is a different kind of site. It is obvious that the Inca were very good at carving stone, but at Qenqo they carved a complex pattern of troughs, figures, and caves into an outcropping of rock.

By walking, we found several things that weren't included in the tours out of Cusco. Cusilluchayoc is a shattered, rocky outcropping through which runs a series "caves." According to the boy that led us through what turned out to be dark, dirty, narrow, winding, extremely dirty, really dark, impossibly narrow fissures, the Inca hid from the Spanish here, were discovered, and were dragged out by dogs. As we continued toward Puka Pukara (the next site), we came across Incan stone laying about in fields. We also found rock outcroppings where stones used for construction elsewhere had been removed.


The view from Cusilluchayoc. Sacsayhuaman can be seen in the background. Still further away is Cusco.	An Incan stone along our path.

Using teams of runners and an elaborate road system, the Inca developed a rapid means of communication by which to manage and control their extensive empire. Although Puka Pukara means Red Fort in Quechua (the language of the Inca as well as many Bolivian and Peuvian campesinos today) this site is now thought to be a way-station or "tambo" - an ancient version of a motel - where runners and other travelers could stop and spend the night.


Puka Pukara overlooks a broad valley that eventually descends down to Pisac. There is little supervision at the site. Visitors can climb on walls and Llamas move about grazing freely on its terraces.


Ironically, while Puka Pukara was probably a tambo, "Tambo" Machay probably was not. More than likely it was a temple of some kind - some speculate it was devoted to the worship of water due to the spring that flows out of it even today. Whatever the case, it is a small, secluded site that is finely made and elegant.

Bolivia, 2001